CARE & FEEDING

 

TRI-COLOR HOGNOSE
I try to get mine to eat for the first time about two weeks after the first shed on a newborn size dead pinkie. I leave it in overnight and if it’s not gone by morning I take it out. Then I try one again a few days later.  No luck? Then I try it again a few days latter with a live pinkie. No luck? I try again a few days later with a washed off (still wet) dead pinkie. Still no luck? Then I try again a day later the same way but with it split brained. Still no luck? At this time I will wait them out for a week or so (only if they still seem strong and in good health) and try the whole process over again from just a dead pinkie. (It most likely will not take this long) but if it does (try video method at this point) if the video method does not work for you then I will gently open the snakes mouth and put a newborn size pinkie in head first just enough so the snakes mouth holds it there while you (as calm as possible) set it down and 9 out of 10 times it will go ahead and eat the pinkie. If it does give it a week and then try to just offer it a dead pinkie and it may or may not eat it, if it does then great if not then just put one in its mouth a few more times until it starts to eat them on its own. Now let’s go back if it spits out the pinkie you put in its mouth then try it the next day but put it in a bit further so it would have a hard time spitting it out. (All of this needs to be done in slow motion so the snake does not get too stressed and just keep spitting it out to get away). 


RAT SNAKES
CARE SHEET for Porphyraceus (Oreocryptophis porphyraceus coxi, applies to Latacinctus , Pulchra and Vaillanti as well)Temps- 68-81 degrees F. I keep mine right about 75 most of the time.
Setup- A good soil substrate works great for adults, well moistened. Cypress Mulch also works well. I only use paper towels for all of mine . Small, tight hide spots, good sized water dish, separate hide spot with moistened sphagnum moss can be used if you like. Be sure to maintain higher humidity areas, and be sure to have LOWER temp areas to offset your warmer areas. 
Daily care- Keep substrate and sphagnum misted, moisture is important. Spot clean as necessary.
Feeding- Feed one appropriately sized mouse once a week. Thawed prey items are typically fine, these are very enthusiastic feeders.
Notes- These snakes are kept in my coolest room, in the coolest spot. They dehydrate in dry setups, which is the most common captive husbandry problem. Aspen bedding is NOT a suitable substrate. These are just ideas that can be used but I keep all of mine in a rack set up WITH NO HEAT. It stays between 68 to 80 all year in my snake room. I keep my babies on soaked paper towels with only a small water bowel and my adults the same but with dry paper towels and a hide box with a soaked paper towel in it. If they ever look dehydrated get them into more water ASAP. If you look on my web site in the photo gallery under rat snakes you should see some of my set ups.

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